Lauren Be Explorin'
Travel, Hiking, Adventure, Photos, Animals.
My Life's Journey, through photographs, expeditions, and stories.
Hiking & Camping
HIKING TIPS & TRICKS
Here are some tips from my experiences of hiking in the wilderness.
Everything you need to know about preferred gear, location, direction, and trail reviews!
HIKING MAPPED TRAILS
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I usually get the urge to go out somewhere for a hike spontaneously.
I'll just be getting home from work and i'll think to myself, "man, I reaaalllyyyy want to go into the wilderness", and at that time, I would get my gear ready to go and load up the car.
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I don't always have a plan when I go somewhere, sometimes I don't even have a plan as to where I'm even going at all! It would be at this time I would look at my favorite hiking app, AllTrails.
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Whenever I want to hike trails, I use this app. It has ALL the trails that are mapped in National Parks, State Parks, and even some little neighborhood parks.
I use it mainly to choose a new place to explore. You can look up a trail you want to hike/find a trail to hike, and it will show you reviews of the trail from people who have actually hiked it, and photos that people have taken themselves of the trail.
You can also use this app to track your hike, from start to finish. It will log it for you and save it to your "completed trails", so you can prove you actually went there ;).
I love it! It is extremely helpful in finding a new place to hike, as well as tracking your trip!
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HIKING NEW TRAILS
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Sometimes, I will hike a place that isn't on the map.
(this is dangerous, and should only be done by people who know EXACTLY what they're doing)
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I still want to keep track of my location & map the trail for future use, and for this situation, I use GIA GPS.
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This app will track your hike, just like the AllTrails app.
(and you can even share maps between the two apps!)
You can even create your own trail without even walking it! But that's no fun, so for accuracy, us die-hard backpackers actually hike stuff.
If you take photos with your phone along the way, it will map exactly where those photos were taken, and show you on the map!
I love this feature, because if you ever want to go back just to see a specific thing, you can see exactly where on the trail you saw it, and back-track to it!
DIRECTION
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Did you lose your way? Did you go off the trail and get lost? Is your trail poorly marked? Well here is a little tip I've learned to help me find my way back.
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Know that the sun rises in the east
Now, it's not true east, but very very close to it. Figure out where the sun is rising from, and that direction is east. If the sun is rising to your right then straight ahead is north. You should be able to figure out south and west from there.
The same rules apply as the sun sets in the west, but if you’re still lost when the sun is setting, you’ll probably want to make camp rather than fend off whatever is lurking in the woods at night, or make yourself more lost.
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Know that the North Star is in the north
This particular star is actually true north. If it’s not cloudy, then you’ll find it at the tail end of the Little Dipper. (the Handle Side)
Lay a stick in a safe spot on the ground to make an arrow pointing in that direction, so you can wake up in the morning and remember the direction.
The sun rising to your right (east) will also confirm that your arrow is correct.
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Make your own compass
You’ll need a needle, a piece of wool or silk, a leaf, and a still puddle of water. Rub the needle with the wool or silk about 100 times and the needle will actually acquire a magnetic charge. (you can also rub the needle through your hair, CAREFULLY)
Place the leaf delicately on the puddle of water, and place the needle on top.
If there is no wind, the needle should align with magnetic north. The thicker end of the needle (the side with the eye) will favor the northern direction.
BACKPACK CHECKLIST
If we've ever hiked together, you know that I have anything we could ever need in my backpack.
Shoot, even when I'm not hiking, I still probably have what you need in my day-to-day backpack. Some call it hoarding, but I call it preparedness.
Here's a list of items that I never hike without:
(Click on each item to view the same item I own)
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(Day Hike Pack - Waterproof Backpack)
- Machete
- Knife
- Metal Plate & Eating Utensils
- Dry Bag
- Mylar blanket (a.k.a. Space Blanket)
- Head Lamp & Spare Batteries x2
- Small Fishing Kit (Homemade)
- Fuel
- Protein Bars & Other Food
- Poncho & Waterproof Backpack Protector
- Hammock
- Warm Sleeping Bag / Cold Sleeping Bag
- Spare Clothes: Pants, Shirt, Socks, Underwear, Jacket.
- Camera Gear (Camera, Lenses, Lense Attachments, Batteries, SD Cards, etc.)
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To me, all of these items are essential.
Whenever I go on a hike that will take all day, or multiple days, I will bring everything on this list, and it all fits in my backpack.
The only thing that doesn't fit is my camera equipment, which is fine, I just hook the lenses to the outside of my backpack and carry the camera on my neck the entire time. Also, with all of these items, you will still have a little room left over for some things you'd like to add to your trip.
GEAR
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Let me just put this out there...I am not sponsored by anyone, I just like what I like, and I want people to get good quality stuff too.
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If you need any hiking clothes or shoes, rock climbing equipment, or a new tent for your expeditions, check out Eastern Mountain Sports.
If you have no idea what you're looking for, you should really check them out. These people have been more than helpful with me, and have extensive knowledge about the outdoors and what equipment is best for your needs.
Also, you won't need to donate a kidney just to buy something!
I love EMS, and I only buy my hiking pants from them, and nobody else. It's really hard (as a woman) to find good quality cargo pants that fit correctly and look good!
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Footwear
Your feet are your only means of transportation while hiking. Treat them well by supporting them and protecting them with sturdy, comfortable hiking boots or shoes.
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Shoes
Shoes provide comfort and easy hiking. They are very flexible and require minimum break-in time. You could probably buy a pair and start hiking in them the next day, I did this with my Keen shoes. As soon as I bought them, I took them out for a test run, and I am very satisfied.
Unfortunately, this style has become popular for normal wear so there are many shoes that appear to be hiking shoes but have no support. Make sure you do your research! Real hiking shoes have good support for your arches and feet. They should also be designed to keep dirt and pebbles from getting in around the ankle and will most likely be equipped with some type of waterproofing.
Their lower ankle style lessens the support of the ankle, and provides no protection around the ankle area from brush and other scratches.
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Boots
These are appropriate for on-trail and off-trail terrain. You should expect to spend a week of walking to break in your boots; some require less time, depending on their stiffness. If you are not used to above ankle boots, you'll need to spend extra time getting comfortable to the feel.
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No matter what trails you plan to hike, a boot will be a good choice. If you decide to go on extended hikes, their extra foot stiffness and ankle support will help out. They also work fine on shorter hikes, and give you the option to take more difficult routes if you want.
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Hiking boots should be waterproof. If you get an all-leather pair, you may treat it with waterproofing spray or paste. The extra boot weight means you will be working harder with these boots, but the extra safety and support are well worth the effort.
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Sandals
You can safely hike in sandals with good tread and strong straps. Sandals are very light, so your legs work less to lift and step, but they leave virtually no support for your ankle or foot.
They are dry and comfortable for hiking on groomed trails with a light day pack, but not practical for any off-trail hiking or extended day trips.
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It is a good idea to have a pair to use as a camp shoe and for water crossings.
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Socks
When choosing socks, consider these tips:
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Never use cotton socks for hiking. Cotton absorbs moisture and takes forever to dry.
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Use wool to stay warm and still absorb moisture. Tend to be most expensive. Look for Merino Wool for softer, finer fibers.
Use synthetics if your feet sweat a lot because they wick moisture away better than natural fibers.
Turn the sock inside out and check the denseness of the fabric loops. Smaller, denser loops will hold up longer for cushioning and absorption.
Thicker socks tend to wear longer. The thickness can also help improve the fit of a very slightly large boot. Or, a thicker pair of socks in the morning and a thinner pair after lunch when your feet have swelled a bit might be something to consider.
Seams should be flat so they do not create more points of pressure on your foot.
Socks should have elastic stretch so they hold to your foot and do not slip down into piles in your boot.
The fit should be snug, but not tight. Any bagginess or extra length between heel and toe means its too big.
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Clothing
Layer #1 - Wicking
The clothes next to your body are responsible for wicking perspiration away and keeping you dry. First layer should always be a polypropylene long undershirt and underpants.
NEVER WEAR COTTON - it absorbs and holds moisture which chafes and makes you cold.
Long underwear can be rolled up over the knees and elbows as the temperature climbs and then even removed if it really warms up. I wear the long underwear all the time when mountain hiking and have only had a few days when it got too warm.
Of course, it's better to remove this layer early rather than get overheated and then chilled when the evening cool-down occurs.
Wicking liner socks fall into this category also.
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Layer #2 - Insulating
This layer can actually be a couple of layers. It's job is to keep enough body warmth in to keep you comfortably warm while still allowing sweat to escape. Synthetic fabric such as fleece is usually a good, inexpensive choice.
Moisture is deadly when the temperature drops or when you slow down your pace, you want moisture to get out but not in.
Goose down is an excellent insulating layer - very lightweight, but expensive.
For pants, a pair of nylon zip-off pants is a great layer on top of your polypropylene underpants.
Clothes that are easy to slip on and off are optimal since these insulating layers will be changed as you heat up and cool down.
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Layer #3 - Protective Shell
This used to be the trouble area with layering - something that could keep out rain but still allow perspiration to escape.
Make sure you get a coat that has a built-in hood so rain doesn't just drip down your neck. This layer protects you from rain, snow, and wind. Heat is lost from your body by:
Convection - wind pulling the warm air away from around your body.
Conduction - an object absorbing your heat, like sitting on a cold rock or sleeping on the ground or wet clothes.
Evaporation - heat loss from an object drying out, like when you get a bandanna wet and wrap it around your neck. Or, when your wet cotton t-shirt dries from the wind.
An outer shell prevents all three of these heat losses and is crucial whenever you may encounter bad weather or cold temperatures.
A silnylon rain poncho that completely covers you and your pack is an ultralight protective shell option. Not as durable and multi-use as jacket and pants, however it can save a lot of weight and space.
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Packs
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Fanny Pack
These small pouches are intended to carry personal belongings on day hikes. Fanny packs are light and very useful. They have many different features such as built in water bottle holders, compartments for different gear, and loops to hang stuff.
You can wear a fanny pack around your waist, draped over a shoulder, or by the handle in case you get tired of carrying it any particular way. They are meant to be carried in the small of your back, but I sometimes spin mine around to the front and carry it there when I need to get at stuff while hiking.
Be aware that overloading a fanny pack may become uncomfortable because it will sag and bounce around. If you have that much stuff, step up to a larger pack.
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Day Hike Pack
A day hiking pack has shoulder straps but no waist belt. It is intended to carry lighter loads on the shoulders for which you do not need the waist support. There is no sharp line between hiking day packs and backpacks. Starting with tiny packs, you can find larger and larger and larger packs, some with hydration systems, some with an added chest strap, and some with waist strap.
A day pack is only carried on the shoulders, but since its larger, that's probably the only way you would want to carry it. Your day pack should be big enough to hold all the gear you need, but not much bigger, or you will be tempted to fill it up, meaning more weight and strain on you.
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Backpack
For day hikes, you really shouldn't need a hiking backpack unless you are geared up for cold weather, are going a long distance, or are carrying gear for others.
Hiking backpacks are made for heavy loads, so they have complex systems of strapping, padding, and support to make the load as comfortable on your body as possible. Taking the time to adjust your backpack occasionally during a hike will keep things balanced and situated. An off-center pack or a strap rubbing or a hard point in your back can make for a huge soreness problem along your journey.
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Food
Hiking is work, and work burns calories.
But, just how much extra fuel is needed depends on how much you weigh, how far you hike, and how much elevation you gain. The speed at which you move also makes a difference in how many calories are consumed.
Whether you walk at 2mph or 4mph, there is only a small change in calorie consumption.
Calculate your calorie needs.
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CAMPING TIPS & TRICKS
Here are some tips from my experiences of camping in the wilderness.
Everything you need to know about preferred equipment such as tents, cookware, tools, & sleeping gear, as well as tips on how to start fires, find supplies, and camping spot reviews!
CAMPSITES
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I choose to camp only at National Parks, if I can help it. This is just my personal preference as to where I like to be.
Also, If I'm going to fulfill my lifelong goal, (to see & hike all of the National Parks in the U.S.), I might as well camp there right?
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For this I just use the REI Co-op National Parks Guide app.
This app has all of the National Parks listed, with maps of trails, overlooks, and camping spots. If I need information on the Parks individually, (fees and Park conditions), I just go to the NP Website.
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For all other public campsites, I usually just check out The Dyrt app. They have pretty much every public campsite listed, with pictures and ratings from people who have stayed there. This app is super useful if you plan spontaneous hiking/camping trips like me.
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TENT
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I own 4 tents, don't ask me why. I have a problem.
All of them except one have been more than fantastic for what I've needed them for. Depending on weather conditions and landscape, I have a tent for each situation.
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Group Camping
Camping with a small group of friends can be fun! For this, I have a nice giant 9 person tent.
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This tent is more than big enough to house my small circle of buddies, and my dogs of course.
Cold
I recommend using one big tent if you're going camping with some friends, especially if it's cold outside. Sharing a tent with a group makes you guys able to share each other's body heat and stay nice and toasty, but also remember, the bigger the tent, the more heat can escape.
Plus, if you guys each have your own sleeping bags, you can huddle up next to each other, and keep each other warm without feeling too weird about it!
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Warm
If you're camping in the summer, It doesn't really matter if you guys share a tent, or each of you has separate tents. You'll be hot either way.
In the summer, I don't even use a tent sometimes. I have my "hammock in a bag" that I take with me, and I'll just tie my backpack to a tree and lay down and cover up.
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Solo Camping
Camping alone is really fun and gives you this different sense of independence, but also more dangerous than camping with others, just keep that in mind. If you get lost or hurt, you're alone with nobody to help you.
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Besides that...
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For camping alone, if I have my dogs with me, (which is 90% of the time), I'll use my one person backpack tent. It has the ability to either be completely open to the breeze , or to be completely closed in from the cold. It's just big enough for me and my two pups to fit all nice and snug inside and cuddle inside the sleeping bag for the night. If it's cold outside, we hardly notice, their bodies are like my own personal heating pads!
FIRE
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There is nothing more frustrating than putting in the effort to start a fire, only to have it extinguish. Proper planning and tinder/kindling choices are crucial.
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Tinder
Tinder is a material which will readily ignite with a spark. This is what you will use to start your fire.
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Natural materials used for tinder:
- Dry Grass
- Leaves
- Shaved Bark
- Dandelion Head (Make a wish!)
- Birch Bark
- Cattail Fluff
- Dry Cattail Leaves
- Dry Pine Needles
- Tinder Fungus
- Punk Wood
- Poplar Cotton
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Man made materials used for tinder:
- Cotton balls
- Lint (from clothes dryer or your socks)
- Paper
- Tampons
- Steel wool
- Pieces of vehicle tire
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Kindling
Kindling - Small pieces of grass, leaves and twigs.
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Pretty much, just gather up a bunch of small dry sticks and twigs, and you've got yourself some kindling. You place this stuff on top of your Tinder once it's catches on fire to keep it going, but make sure you place it on the burning tinder GENTLY.
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Wood
Wood - Sustaining fuel. (gradually increase the size of the wood)
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Techniques
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Make a Fuzz Stick!
Fuzz sticks are a great way to start and keep a fire going. You can remove the damp bark by using your knife edge. By cutting thin slices out of the wood, you can get to drier wood. The thinner slices will burn more readily.
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Flint & Steel
(My personal favorite method)
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Put dried grass, leaves, or paper into a small pile that will be used as tinder. Then put the flint stick end near the edge of the pile (with the rest of the pile in front of it). Use the piece of steel to scrape the flint super rough, causing sparks to fly into the pile. Continue to scrape the flint until the fire starts. (If no fire is created from the sparks alone, scrape some flint filings on your tinder; then light these filings with the sparks) After you have a small flame, steadily add some kindling to it to keep it going, while steadily increasing the size of the wood. BOOM, fire.
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The Hand Drill
Build a tinder nest, make a tinder nest out of anything that catches fire easily, like dry grass, leaves, or bark. Now find a flat-like piece of wood, and make a notch in it. Cut a v-shaped notch into your fire board and make a small depression adjacent to it.
Place a piece of bark underneath the notch. The bark will be used to catch an ember from the friction between the spindle and fireboard.
Now get a smooth straight stick, and use this as your spindle. Place the spindle into the depression on your fire board. Your spindle should be about 2 feet long for this to work properly. Maintain pressure on the board and start rolling the spindle between your hands, running them quickly up and down the spindle. Keep doing this until an ember is formed on the fireboard.
Once you see a glowing ember, tap the fire board to drop the ember onto the piece of bark, then transfer the bark to your nest of tinder. Gently blow on it to start your flame. Add kindling and slowly increase wood size.
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Fire Plough
Prepare your fireboard, cut a groove in the fireboard about 3/4 of the length of the board itself. This will be your track for the spindle.
Take the tip of your spindle and place it in the groove of your fireboard. Start rubbing the tip of the spindle up and down inside of the groove. Have your tinder nest at the end of the fireboard, so that you’ll plow embers into as you’re rubbing. Once you catch one, blow the nest gently and get that fire going. Add kindling, and increase wood size.
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Lenses
All you need is some sort of lens in order to focus sunlight on a specific spot. (glasses, Binoculars, etc.) If you add some water to the lens, you can intensify the beam. Angle the lens towards the sun in order to focus the beam into a pinpoint location. Put your tinder nest under this spot, and you’ll soon have yourself a fire.
The only drawback to the lens method is that it only works when you have sunlight.
Cooking
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Plan your meals before your trip
Measuring ingredients and packing certain amounts of items specific to each meal can save a lot of time. Use zip-lock bags to keep dry ingredients dry and wet ingredients from leaking all over your other supplies.
Freeze your meat
The meat will keep longer, which is perfect if you’re camping for more than one night. This means you won’t have to eat all of your meat on day one to keep it from going bad. Take fresh meat for the first day and frozen meat for the following days.
Also, the frozen meat is a great way to help keep the temperature down in your cooler. (Bonus!)
Always bring aluminum foil
Aluminum foil can keep food warm, cover food for later use, or provide a method of cooking over an open fire. It’s a must-have for camp cooking.
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Pre-chop your meat and vegetables
Doing all the work at home will save a huge amount of time and help avoid the mess at the campsite. Chopped meat and vegetables should be stored in plastic bags as mentioned above. This will avoid contamination / spillage, and keep your vegetables nice and dry.
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Take only the cookware you plan to use
Keeping your cookware down to only what you need will save space and time. I recommend bringing a foldable pan and stackable pots.
Heat your cleaning water while you eat
Once you've started eating your meal, fill a pot with water and start warming it on your camp stove or over the fire. This way, you won’t have to wait for it to warm up for cleaning up after your meal.
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Keep food locked up
Nobody wants animals stealing their food, especially bears. Either keep your food in a chuck box, high in a tree, or in your vehicle. This will protect you and your family, as well as the local wildlife.